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The packet boat Pennsylvania, which exploded on the Mississippi June 13, 1858.

Mother Caroline Friess was rescued from the accident.

 

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From Germany to America

Nun's journal captures experiences of religious order in New World
 

June 18, 2006

The School Sisters of Notre Dame's roots extend to southern Germany. Caroline Gerhardinger founded the order in the 1830s, during a time when equal access to education was rare. Gerhardinger adopted the name Theresa of Jesus and quickly built a reputation for teaching illiterate girls.

In 1847 a group of American bishops enticed her and a handful of School Sisters to come attend to the poor German immigrants teeming into this country. They established their first foothold in Baltimore, taking over a building on East Aisquith Street that would become the Institute of Notre Dame.

The newcomers assumed immediate responsibility for three local Catholic schools. Those students rocked their Old World sensibilities, judging by the archived correspondence of Sister Caroline Friess.

"They seem to be prone to an inordinate love of all freedom from birth. Little girls nine or ten years old resent any admonition," she wrote. "All I could do was resort to storytelling, lead them in singing and the like, in order to catch the birds and by degrees clip their wings. ...The most neglected and annoying children were at [Fells] Point. Poverty, listlessness and dislike for learning obliged them to roam the streets much of the time with sacks on their backs to gather old iron, bones and rags which they would sell."

Within a year, the School Sisters had established a presence in seven cities. In May 1848 Sister Theresa and Sister Caroline went to scout additional sites for SSND missions, embarking on a seven-week, 2,597-mile trip by stage coach, train and steamboat that took them as far west as St. Louis.

Sister Caroline kept notes. They read, in part, like a travelogue: the story of two indomitable women in long, black habits making their way across a rough-and-tumble, adolescent America.

Here are some excerpts from her post-journey report, originally written in German:

Smoke-choked Pittsburgh

"Not until one o'clock did the boat start on its trip down the Monongahela. After a pleasant ride of four and a half hours we had covered 50 miles, and sooty, smoky Pittsburgh lay before us. This is a large commercial city containing 200 to 300 factories. The smoke stacks spit smoke here the whole day, the fine particles of which mingle with the air and become burdensome to people as they inhale them and get covered with them, etc. Everywhere one looks there is coal dust. Face and hands are always full of it; if one wants to wipe it off, one paints oneself with it. Children soon look like chimney sweeps and blacksmiths. Even in the brightest sunshine, one cannot get a full view of the city when the factories are in operation.

Traveling the Ohio River to Cleveland

"The country along the Ohio River is well cultivated. The state has a healthful climate, the soil is well watered and may in a sense be termed a house of bread. In this part of the country only a few Germans have settled, but one finds large numbers of Yankees (unbelieving Englanders), Methodists, Presbyterians. Their church steeples are decorated with arrows.

Observing Children on the Boat Across Lake Erie to Detroit

This lake, feared by many, is of unfathomable depth. It supplies fish of excellent quality and size, wherefore fisherman have their homes on the shore. Our steamer was named Georginia and carried one hundred passengers. On board were entire families whose children made much noise and showed themselves very disobedient. It is wonderful to notice how fast the faculties of American children develop; they are quite fearless, take hold or touch anything very skillfully, and speak very intelligently. In many respects they are quite unlike the European children.

Encountering Tom Thumb and Indians in Detroit

On the street we saw on one occasion a very small but splendid conveyance, the inside covered with silk velvet and the whole decorated with silver and gold ornaments. It was drawn by two small glistening black ponies, who were driven by two seven-year-old boys. Queen Victoria of England had presented it to a dwarf named Tom Thumb, who at this time could be seen in Detroit for a quarter.

At present he weighs fifteen pounds, is twenty-two inches high, sixteen years old and possesses extraordinary talent. Tom Thumb may be seen in different costumes; as gentlemen [sic], sailor, soldier, etc. He is full of fun, runs, jumps, dances and sings before the public, and his only wish is that he may find a little lady to be his wife. It is sad to say that he professes no religion.

Before I close my account about Detroit, I must remark that many Indians assemble there. These women sell baskets which they carry on their backs. The men have bows and arrows in their hands; they offer these for sale. As soon as they receive a little money, they buy and drink whiskey to excess.

Riding the Rails and Stagecoach to Milwaukee

The road was very bad again today, the railroad track covered only with planks placed across, on which the iron rails lay. In Bavaria no one would dare to travel on such roadbeds.

At 9:00 in the evening we alighted from the train and exchanged it for the stage coach, but, oh! My God! What a wretched road now awaited us. There was no end of knocking and jolting during the entire night! The poor horses were driven at full speed over holes and stony ground so that the wagon continually creaked. The primitive woods are not so dark as in Pennsylvania. We did not notice any game, but saw many snakes, squirrels and rather large birds of crimson, yellow and white color, but they did not sing."

Chicago, That Toddless Town

At five o'clock we were in Chicago, a very handsome city. Chicago will some day on account of its trade on Lake Michigan become an important city. On the great Lake Michigan two boys were rowing along boldly in the hollow trunk of a tree; pigs came to the shore of the lake looking for food. Sea gulls, the size of a goose, were rocking on the glistening waves; men in boats were out fishing. The islands today were also inhabited by Indians. We become ever more interested to see people of this race."

From Detroit to Buffalo Via An Angry Lake Erie

Never before had Lake Erie been so turbulent as it was during that trip. The waves dashed high; the boat rocked violently back and forth, whereby one's insides were well stirred up. From nearly every cabin a concert of vomiting sounded forth, which only brought on more from the listeners. Oh, how sick our dear Reverend Mother [Sister Theresa] became!

We made the distance of 300 miles from Detroit to Buffalo in 22 hours. Such a surprise! The ships lying at anchor could not be counted; each one was larger, newer, prettier then the one before; flags of different kinds and colors moved from them. How I wished that our Sisters in Europe could witness such a sight! Buffalo, a new but very quickly growing city, will become another New York; its population increases daily."

Seeing Niagara Falls for the First Time

Before we came to Buffalo we had heard of the Niagara Falls, which are about five miles distant from the city. We viewed it from three different sides. The chasm is 160 feet deep, simply awesome. The falling water resembles milk which has been well shaken. We descended by a staircase of 300 steps. We were obliged to ascend again, and this was hard labor causing heavy breathing. Today were are tired and exhausted, but we have found more than sufficient compensation.

 
 

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